Colombia’s population today is only less that 4% indigenous. That sad fact is the reason why it took a trip to the southern mountain town of Sylvia to get a sense of their presence. I went on Market day, when the Guambiano people come to do their marketing. These people are reputedly fierce in their opposition to the FARC, the paramilitary groups and the cartels. They, of course wish to be left to their lives. There is a good article here by Garry M. Leech about their struggles to survive and to maintain their autonomy.